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We always start with a conversation as to what you need and your intended purpose for the clothing.
A luxury super 150’s with cashmere will not stand up to being worn three times a week with an 18 hour working day thrown in here and there, in short, you will be disappointed and the suit won’t last very long, however the above certainly has a place and we have made pure worsted spun cashmere and vicuña suits, (very deep pockets!) for special occasion wear and for those that have many suits in their wardrobe or just a few very special ones.
The whole process is a building platform of addressing the intended use and selecting cloth that is up to the task, marrying these with suitable quality linings that work harmoniously with the weight of cloth, alongside soft but durable chest and body canvas, quality threads and horn buttons.
I firmly believe in horses for courses… an 8/9oz super 150’s cloth needs the finest components and very skilful hands to make a clean finish that will be a joy to wear on the right occasions and we have a small team of tailors in Rome who regularly make up this weight of cloth for us.
Likewise a 17oz tweed will need a marriage of firmer components and if we are making fieldwear, we use our specialist tailors for the job in hand.
After discussion about your intended purpose we will suggest cloths from literally thousands, bearing in mind what we think will work with your style ideas.
It is a regular thing and often helpful for us, to be shown style images from your Pinterest and Instagram boards, so that we can better understand each other.
We have our own boards on these platforms, so please have a look on the links on this site.
Thorough measurements and figuration assessment is vital to the measure twice, cut once ideology.
Fittings are for our benefit and how many depends simply on how many you need.
Timescale and time pressure (an unexpected invite) often play a part in how we make your suit and of course your budget.
The minimum standard we make is half canvassed with horn buttons and of course we will and love to make fully hand canvassed, with hand made button holes, collar, all over sartorial stitching… as much as we can, except the long seams which are always machined for a cleaner finish.
You should allow a minimum of 8 weeks and a maximum of 5 months for your suit dependant on your figuration and how many fittings we need.
We do make a lot of made to measure suits, based on our tried and trusted patterns that can be adjusted to accommodate most figuration issues.
We all have a minimum of 40 years experience (I know I don’t look old enough) and the cloths we use are tried and tested, we are here to help, guide and advise you and hopefully build an honest and trustworthy relationship with you.
Assurances: We will never discuss your business, or who you are with anyone else.
We do not ‘cash in’ on people’s fame or status and we closely guard just who we make for, yes there are some famous faces, but what is said within our four walls, stays within our four walls.
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